I had been to Miami exactly one time before I moved here, unwillingly, if also gratefully, as a recession refugee. Departing on March 1, 2010, in what my East Village landlord’s lawyer later referred to as “the dead of night” (it was actually midmorning), I left behind some furniture, a low six figures of debt and most everyone I’d ever met. I carted the books I didn’t think were worth taking across the street to the bookstore, and the booksellers in turn quietly carted the books they thought not worth taking to the trash cans on the northeast corner of St. Mark’s and First Avenue, and so I drove off for the last time amid a mess of flying pages.
Immediately Miami seemed to be about things crashing into things. The woman who, head down, drove round the corner of the parking garage and slammed into the front of my car without so much as braking. The pelican that splat-bounced off the windshield. (There is, it turns out, no amenable city or county hot line to call about a struck pelican.) The star cracks left in the glass by some millionaire’s dazed gardener on a green street in Miami Beach, leaf-blowing pebbles traffic-ward. Beyond the front seat, there was also the news spectacle of the police officer who, trying to impress a woman, drove an all-terrain vehicle over people waiting at the shore for sunrise. On the sides of the roads, there were always fresh wrecks; fenders and hoods and bits everywhere, girls’ faces in their hands. Everyone coming to a near-stop to watch.
I drove to Miami because, conveniently, my car had to get here somehow, but in truth I’d barely flown since one terrible trip between D.C. and California in the early 1990s. Miami made me start to think I’d be better off in the air. Mine was a proud New York car; it had previously seen only snow and the vicious potholes of the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, yet once on the road here we were forced to dodge an actual oven that fell off an old pickup truck on I-95, a road I still think of as the way to New Haven. I live a few blocks from the end of that interstate, and sometimes considered, when driving over to Walgreens for a pack of Winstons, just continuing on to the safer territory of the north. (Besides, I still haven’t completely unpacked the trunk.)
If this seems like an awful lot of things about cars, it’s because Miami is about transport. If it’s not the car, it’s the boat. And if it’s not the boat, it’s planes. Except for the Seminole and the Miccosukee, most everyone here is from somewhere else (although not the Cubans, as Cuba’s more like our Staten Island). Most everyone else seems like a stray. The billboards advertise the new nonstops to Madrid; almost half the passengers at the airport are bound outside the United States; English is the first language of one-quarter of the county’s population. Also, the other day I met my first Filipino Jew — though to be fair, he came by way of New York.
But beyond the disorder and collisions of far-off strangers meeting all-too-suddenly, there are points of order: the long banks of the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden and the green waters of the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, America’s first undersea park. The serene, open-air Bal Harbour mall, quietly crammed with Loro Piana and Bottega Veneta, has some of the highest-earning retail space per square foot in the United States. An hour southwest, across miles of the forgotten and excluded (picture the map of “Grand Theft Auto: Vice City,” particularly the abandoned warehouse district and the freeway-locked Overtown, which were modeled on this part of the city), you find the relaxing five-acre-minimum plots of Redland. There it’s all free-roaming dogs and peacocks and horses amid mangoes and avocados. As you go south it becomes even more California, what with the prisons, migrant workers and South Florida’s greatest tortilla shop.
But besides the divide between rich and not rich, there are no extremes here: not a hill, not a valley. It’s flat straight across from the beach to the long straight road on the edge of town, where everything stops and devolves into grassland and turtles and cedars and great blue herons. (And wherever you go, there’s WVUM, which hosts Vamos a la Playa, the exceptionally smooth, electro-suave, beach-sexy sounds of Laura of Miami, one of the truly great D.J.’s of our time.)
by Choire Sicha, NY Times | Read more:
Illustration: Patrick Leger
Immediately Miami seemed to be about things crashing into things. The woman who, head down, drove round the corner of the parking garage and slammed into the front of my car without so much as braking. The pelican that splat-bounced off the windshield. (There is, it turns out, no amenable city or county hot line to call about a struck pelican.) The star cracks left in the glass by some millionaire’s dazed gardener on a green street in Miami Beach, leaf-blowing pebbles traffic-ward. Beyond the front seat, there was also the news spectacle of the police officer who, trying to impress a woman, drove an all-terrain vehicle over people waiting at the shore for sunrise. On the sides of the roads, there were always fresh wrecks; fenders and hoods and bits everywhere, girls’ faces in their hands. Everyone coming to a near-stop to watch.
I drove to Miami because, conveniently, my car had to get here somehow, but in truth I’d barely flown since one terrible trip between D.C. and California in the early 1990s. Miami made me start to think I’d be better off in the air. Mine was a proud New York car; it had previously seen only snow and the vicious potholes of the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, yet once on the road here we were forced to dodge an actual oven that fell off an old pickup truck on I-95, a road I still think of as the way to New Haven. I live a few blocks from the end of that interstate, and sometimes considered, when driving over to Walgreens for a pack of Winstons, just continuing on to the safer territory of the north. (Besides, I still haven’t completely unpacked the trunk.)
If this seems like an awful lot of things about cars, it’s because Miami is about transport. If it’s not the car, it’s the boat. And if it’s not the boat, it’s planes. Except for the Seminole and the Miccosukee, most everyone here is from somewhere else (although not the Cubans, as Cuba’s more like our Staten Island). Most everyone else seems like a stray. The billboards advertise the new nonstops to Madrid; almost half the passengers at the airport are bound outside the United States; English is the first language of one-quarter of the county’s population. Also, the other day I met my first Filipino Jew — though to be fair, he came by way of New York.
But beyond the disorder and collisions of far-off strangers meeting all-too-suddenly, there are points of order: the long banks of the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden and the green waters of the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, America’s first undersea park. The serene, open-air Bal Harbour mall, quietly crammed with Loro Piana and Bottega Veneta, has some of the highest-earning retail space per square foot in the United States. An hour southwest, across miles of the forgotten and excluded (picture the map of “Grand Theft Auto: Vice City,” particularly the abandoned warehouse district and the freeway-locked Overtown, which were modeled on this part of the city), you find the relaxing five-acre-minimum plots of Redland. There it’s all free-roaming dogs and peacocks and horses amid mangoes and avocados. As you go south it becomes even more California, what with the prisons, migrant workers and South Florida’s greatest tortilla shop.
But besides the divide between rich and not rich, there are no extremes here: not a hill, not a valley. It’s flat straight across from the beach to the long straight road on the edge of town, where everything stops and devolves into grassland and turtles and cedars and great blue herons. (And wherever you go, there’s WVUM, which hosts Vamos a la Playa, the exceptionally smooth, electro-suave, beach-sexy sounds of Laura of Miami, one of the truly great D.J.’s of our time.)
by Choire Sicha, NY Times | Read more:
Illustration: Patrick Leger