Sunday, October 23, 2011

For the Perfect Martini, Wetter Is Better

by Rosie Schapp, NY Times

(...)  I’ve spent more of my life in bars — on both sides — than I ought to admit. An ice-cold bottle of pilsner or a whiskey on the rocks can make me just as happy as a great cocktail, but my first column is an occasion to honor a classic. I take a pretty hard line on the martini. I prefer gin because, unlike vodka, which is valued for its neutrality, it’s packed with flavor. The taste we most strongly associate with gin is the juniper berry, which is reminiscent of pine and faintly citrusy. Beefeater, my favorite for a classic martini, also includes Seville orange peel, coriander seed and almond, among other ingredients. It’s assertive but beautifully balanced.

Still, drinking should be a pleasure, not a chore. If gin isn’t your poison, go with vodka. If you can’t imagine a martini without an olive, have an olive (I find the saltiness too much). But if you’ve never had a martini any way but bone dry, I implore you to give a wetter version a chance: vermouth — fortified wine flavored with botanicals — adds depth and imparts a spicy, subtly fruity quality. It’s what makes a martini a cocktail rather than just a chilled spirit.

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Photo: Victor Schrager for The New York Times. Prop stylist: Angharad Bailey

4 parts Beefeater gin
1 part Noilly Prat dry vermouth
1 small strip of lemon peel.
1. Fill a mixing glass with ice.
2. Pour in the gin and vermouth.
3. Stir for 30 seconds, then strain into a chilled coupe.
4. Twist the lemon peel over the drink, then place it on the coupe’s edge. The mildly adventurous can garnish with a fresh sage leaf instead.