[ed. It's like another universe.]
Let me begin with a disclaimer: I am not your average fragrance consumer. I have been a beauty editor for 10 years, which has afforded me unprecedented access to hundreds of perfumes, often before they come to market. My fragrance affections being fleeting, however, I still find myself in search of that elusive "signature scent": an early love affair with a cyprus-tinged men's scent from L'Occitane preceded a brief fling with Costume National's Scent Sheer, which I recently followed with a multiparty tryst starring Acqua di Parma's Colonia, Byredo's Seven Veils and Frédéric Malle's Geranium Pour Monsieur.Last March, I'd grown tired of them all. Wandering the streets of Paris while in the city covering fashion shows, I walked into Nose, a newly opened perfume shop in the Second Arrondissement. Intrigued, I sat down at the perfume bar, and a bearded, bow-tied gentleman in jeans assisted me with one of the iPads ranged along the counter. The tablet—and the denim—were signs that a department-store fragrance-buying experience, this wasn't.
That said, it's increasingly less rare to find a digital element in the perfume world. The fragrance-technology industry has been growing steadily, with iPhone apps like reference tool "The Ultimate Perfume Encyclopedia" and personality-driven scent-seeker "Perfumance." Last year, the Japanese company ChatPerf Inc. launched "Scentee," a small atomizer that plugs into a smartphone's headphone jack and mists a preloaded scent to notify you of an email or as an alarm.
At Nose, my affable adviser turned out to be one of the store's founders, Nicolas Cloutier, a former international I.T.-management consultant turned perfume purveyor. "We are geeks who are good at art direction," Mr. Cloutier later said of himself and a few of the seven partners with whom he launched the shop.
Using the iPad's touch screen, I entered the names of my favorite perfumes, allowing the system's algorithm to create a personal "olfactive pyramid," which then produced five personalized recommendations. Key to the Nose experience was a blind sniff test of each scent, intended to de-emphasize packaging, a strategy in line with the store's ethos: to help consumers find fragrances "without the marketing bulls—t," Mr. Cloutier said.
And it worked. I walked out with Etat Libre d'Orange's Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes, a spicy Oriental with hints of ginger, shiso and leather that snapped me right out of my fragrance rut. Nose's algorithm—currently available online, and soon to debut at a second brick-and-mortar branch in the U.S.—made me ponder the idea of online-dating my way to true perfume love.
by Celia Ellenberg, WSJ | Read more:
Image: Pinrose.com
