Few could have predicted the massive cultural impact of Claire Saffitz, then–Senior Food Editor of Bon Appétit, creating an upgraded version of a Hostess Twinkie. It’s been over two years since the appropriately titled “Pastry Chef Attempts to Make a Gourmet Twinkie” was uploaded, and 6.3 million views later, what began as an 11-minute video has become the Bon Appétit YouTube channel’s signature series, earning an impressive legion of devoted fans and turning Claire and her co-workers into internet stars. Gourmet Makes has tackled sweet, savory, and everything in-between, putting Claire’s culinary expertise (and crafting skills) to the test by asking her to recreate beloved junk food with a gourmet twist.
The results of Claire’s efforts are variable, but over the course of its 28 and counting episodes, Gourmet Makes has become as much about the Bon Appétit test-kitchen personalities as it is about perfecting the texture of Twizzlers or Doritos’ nacho-cheese flavor. While each installment still ends with a how-to guide, at this point Gourmet Makes is less instructional video and more legitimate web series, with all the drama, surprises, and rich character arcs of prestige television. With that in mind, the show feels long overdue for a ranking: not of how close Claire’s food comes to the original, but as episodes of an ensemble series starring Claire, her fellow chefs, and a surprisingly useful dehydrator.
Twinkies
The results of Claire’s efforts are variable, but over the course of its 28 and counting episodes, Gourmet Makes has become as much about the Bon Appétit test-kitchen personalities as it is about perfecting the texture of Twizzlers or Doritos’ nacho-cheese flavor. While each installment still ends with a how-to guide, at this point Gourmet Makes is less instructional video and more legitimate web series, with all the drama, surprises, and rich character arcs of prestige television. With that in mind, the show feels long overdue for a ranking: not of how close Claire’s food comes to the original, but as episodes of an ensemble series starring Claire, her fellow chefs, and a surprisingly useful dehydrator.
Twinkies
It’s hard to judge “Twinkies” objectively — this is the episode that started it all, the first exposure that many of us had to Gourmet Makes and to Claire. When compared to the complexity and nuance of later episodes, it’s admittedly lacking. And yet, beyond its nostalgic appeal, “Twinkies” is an essential foundational text, laying the groundwork for everything that follows. We have Claire discovering that the endeavor is more challenging than anticipated: “This is harder than I thought it was gonna be,” she says for the first and not the last time. Her relationship with Brad, who alternates between compassionate ally and merciless bully, is already coming in to focus. Here, he ends up being helpful, suggesting Claire combine a yellow cake and a chiffon cake to get that unique Twinkie texture. “Twinkies are a Frankenstein, in my opinion,” he offers. The result is not so much a Twinkie as the platonic ideal of a Twinkie, which is pretty much Gourmet Makes’ mission statement. And unlike the vast majority of Claire’s future efforts, this Twinkie is something viewers could actually make at home — no background in food science required.
by Louis Peitzman, Vulture | Read more:
Image: YouTube
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