Friday, December 2, 2022

Seattle Times: 11 Best Eats of 2022

The Dungeness crab gunkan maki at Ltd Edition Sushi on Capitol Hill


Ltd Edition Sushi is so great, it might make you depart your senses. This happened to me over and over on two visits for my review earlier this year: a glowing piece of Copper River salmon nigiri placed in front of me by chef Keiji Tsukasaki, or a luscious otoro handroll given from his fingers to mine, then every thought banished, eyes unfocused for a moment of pure, lit-up pleasure. The gorgeous simplicity belies the care taken — this is Edomae-style sushi, with seasonal fish painstakingly marinated or cured, stintingly adorned with intense intention. Here, too: highest-quality fish, single-origin rice, best-possible nori. Tsukasaki’s Dungeness crab gunkan is a miniature crown of our region’s pure, sweet, deep-scuttling treat, topped in a rare moment of experimentation with a glistening crab-fat gel, plus tiny bits of chive, a few grains of salt. If ever a taste can, this transports you out over glinting Pacific Northwest waves, catching the scent of our coastal air, hearing all sound drowned to the bottom and wanting to stay there. Before his time at Sushi Kappo Tamura, Shiro’s and Sushi Kashiba, Tsukasaki used to be a techno DJ, so he might have knowledge of synesthesia to share. I recently paid my own way — $140 — for a third omakase trip. Ltd Edition Sushi is, hands down, Seattle’s best new restaurant. (1641 Nagle Place, Seattle; no phone; ltdeditionsushi.com)
Image: Daniel Kim/Seattle Times
[ed. No particular reason (for this post). I haven't been to any of these places. Just love the look of this crab sushi. Full review of Ltd Edition Sushi here: Sushi so good, it might make you cry (Seattle Times).]