Shirt Collar Styles for Men: The Complete Guide

The collar you choose for your dress shirt will likely have a greater impact on your look than the cuff style or even the overall fit. As it’s the element that literally frames your face, it pays to know the different dress shirt collars that are available, so you can make a perfect choice.

Shirt Collar Basics

Before selecting a collar style, it’s a good idea to understand the basics of what makes a good, or bad, shirt collar. There are a few simple parameters that will help you understand how to get the right balance that suits you best.

Collar Stiffness

From the 1800s to the 1930s, collars made stiff by the liberal application of starch were the norm. These collars were detachable for replacement in an era where effective detergents and laundering were not available. Nowadays, collar stiffness is determined by the thickness of the interlining used to form the collar.

Still affected by the influence of Italian style and the Duke of Windsor, softer collars are more popular these days, particularly with soft tailoring. So, if you prefer odd jackets with natural unpadded shoulders, a soft shirt collar is a great pairing choice for the Neapolitan style. Soft collars are generally better for more casual outfits as well, so they are perfect for warm weather and relaxed looks anytime.

If you are going for a more formal look by wearing a business suit, a firmer collar is the better option for a crisp and sharp appearance. Something in between the two extremes may be the most versatile choice. This is easier to specify if you are looking at made-to-measure or bespoke shirt options, but the majority of good quality ready-to-wear shirts will be designed with the right level of stiffness.

Collar Height

Collar height is the measure of how high a collar sits on your neck. Taller collars are more formal as well as more aggressive; they communicate that you mean business. When choosing a shirt for the workplace, be aware of the impression that collar height makes. A high collar is more typical of the Italian style and can even require two collar buttons to support the added height.

Taller collars can also require some getting used to in terms of the way they feel on your neck. If you’re interested in trying a shirt with a tall collar, consider some offerings from brands like Proper Cloth and Eton.

Face Shape

The collar size you choose will depend on your face shape. If you have a large head or round face, a bigger collar is more suitable to balance out your appearance. Wearing a tiny collar in such cases will only make your face look disproportionately larger. A good rule of thumb is to choose a collar that is similar to the size of your head and face.

The spread or distance between collar points will also be something to take note of. If you have a thin or narrow face, a wider spread collar can help counterbalance that; wearing a narrow collar, in this case, will only enhance the impression of narrowness and make your head look longer. But, if you have a wide or round face, wearing a collar with the points closer together will create a slimmer impression. Unlike size, in terms of spread, you want to choose the opposite of your face width.

Collars at either end of small and large or wide and narrow spread are considered more rakish and non-conformist. So, something of moderate size and spread is ideal for business and everyday use as it hits that middle ground perfectly.

Essential Shirt Collars

The Point Collar

For most white-collar companies, the default business collar is likely the point. As evident from the name, this style is characterized by the fact that the collar tips are pointed. The spread between the points is small and neat. As such, your collar will not expose any of the tie on either side beyond the knot if you wear a four-in-hand.

When wearing a jacket, the points of the collar will not be covered by the lapels, which can be seen as a potential downside for some. This collar flatters if you have a wider face, as it creates a greater balance. A point collar seems to work best in medium stiffness and is typically best worn with collar stays to keep the look of a straight collar with neat points.

Do keep in mind that a stiff point collar will make the collar stand away from the shirt when you are wearing a tie, so there is a gap between the collar and the shirt.

The Spread Collar

Perhaps the most universally flattering type of collar, the classic spread collar is the perfect choice for many people. Suitable for a wide range of functions and events such as cocktails, business meetings, weddings, and everyday wear, the spread collar is characterized by wider collar points than a standard point collar.

Generally speaking, a spread collar is most suitable for the majority of faces, as it draws the viewer’s eyes outward, providing a greater level of balance. Not only that, but a spread collar is more likely to sit neatly under your jacket lapels.

The beauty of the spread collar is the ability to wear wider tie knots like the Windsor and Half-Windsor, as well as the smaller four-in-hand, making it uniquely versatile. Spread collars are also a great option if you own thicker ties, such as those made of wool, cashmere, or other heavier fabrics.

You’ll likely see a bit of variation on both the level of spread, as well as the name for this collar style. You may come across collars such as names and terms such as “semi-spread collars”, or “Kent collars”, and it may even be referred to as an “English spread collar”. Typically speaking, all these different labels will largely relate to a variety of the spread collar style.

by Jack Collins, Gentleman's Gazette |  Read more:

Images: Gentleman's Gazette/uncredited

[ed. Now they tell me. Not that it would have made much difference in my fashion world. See also: Collar Styles - The Cotton, London; and, Our Easy Guide to Finding the Right Shirt Collar for Any Occasion (Paul Fredrick)]