The Slowing of Fast Fashion

Custom made is a term typically associated with expensive light fittings and birthday cakes. But with the rise of the much-discussed “slow fashion” movement [ed.], independent brands are increasingly incorporating custom made and made-to-order services into their off-the-rack ranges. It's a different take on personalization: unlike seeing a Saville Row tailor or putting your name down for a Birkin, this an accessible level of investment that appeals to Gen-Y awareness.

In fashion we’re increasingly choosing to buy less, but to buy smarter and invest in personal pieces with a focus on high quality, locally designed and manufactured products. It’s less about an it item, and more about having something no one else does. In doing this we’re not only spending our own money more wisely, but also are consciously removing ourselves from the mass producers whose manufacturing origins are ethically dubious.

In a post GFC world there's an extra level of prestige granted to independent labels who are able to offer a more personalized service. Stylish girls go mad for independent clothing label Kuwaii, who in 2011 launched a customizable footwear range to much fanfare. "We have an amazing relationship with our manufacturer where we can actually purchase a one-off item, which is pretty much unheard of," says designer Kristy Barber. "So for us to be able to offer one-off pairs seems incredibly special."

While Kuwaii footwear is not completely bespoke, the label allows the consumer a huge say in the shoe’s final appearance. Customers pick a style from the label's archive before selecting their preference of leathers and finishes. The result is an individual offering that feels unique but doesn't create the cost or labor stress of a fully custom-made item that a small label would struggle to accommodate. It's what Barber refers to as a "customised service within a controlled framework".

by Emma Do, I-D | Read more:
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