Deconstructed Wonton Soup

I’ve never met a wonton soup I didn’t love. A bowl (or plastic takeout container, more often than not) of succulent dumplings suspended in a savory, salty broth is reliable comfort. My friend Abbe described the dish as “a dumpling giving you a warm hug,” which is why it’s one of my go-tos when I’m under the weather. But it’s much more than just something I crave when I’m sick — wonton soup is delicious any time.

Any food that involves a flavorful filling wrapped in some sort of dough — gyoza, pierogi, samosas, mandu, empanadas, ravioli, etc. — immediately piques my interest. Something about these little parcels really embodies the gifts they resemble. But wrapping each present can take time, typically more than I have to spend on weeknight dinner, and that time increases with a lack of experience. That’s why I was so intrigued when I first saw a video for a deconstructed wonton soup. (...)

“Deconstruction” can mean different things in the world of gastronomy. Seattle Met senior writer Kathryn Robinson defined it as “breaking a classic dish down to its component parts — then reimagining from there. Sometimes it means recombining. Sometimes not combining. Sometimes recasting ingredients in clever ways.”

In fine-dining circles, the adjective can be a synonym for overcomplicated plates or more artistic interpretations. In this instance, fussiness is nowhere to be found. Instead, deconstruction is all about streamlining the dish to make it easier to prepare at home. Store-bought wonton wrappers are cut into strips that end up resembling hand-pulled noodles, and ground pork seasoned with soy sauce, scallions, toasted sesame oil and sugar is shaped into meatballs. (One could argue that “unconstructed” is a better descriptor since you skip the step of folding and sealing the wontons entirely.)

Bowls of juicy meatballs, slippery noodles and baby bok choy (for added nutrition) in a ginger-scented chicken broth or stock that’s ready in about 40 minutes? Sounds like a winning combination to me. Sure, there aren’t any little “pockets of happy,” as my other friend Anne described traditional wonton soup, but all the flavors are there, and the time saved is well worth their absence. Finish each bowl with a spoonful of chili crisp and a drizzle of more toasted sesame oil and you won’t even miss the wontons.

Deconstructed Wonton Soup

Adapted from Cook’s Country
Total time: 40 minutes
Servings: 6 (makes about 10 cups)
This recipe delivers all the flavors of wonton soup without the trouble of making the dumplings. Instead, the filling is formed into meatballs and store-bought wonton wrappers are cut into strips to form noodles. Drizzle each bowl with chili crisp and toasted sesame oil for extra punch and flavor.
Make ahead: The meatballs can be formed, covered and refrigerated up to 24 hours in advance.
Storage: Refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Where to buy: Wonton wrappers can be found at Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound ground pork
4 scallions, thinly sliced, divided
1 large egg, lightly beaten
4 teaspoons grated or minced fresh ginger, divided
1 tablespoon soy sauce or tamari, preferably reduced-sodium, plus more as needed
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, plus more for serving
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
½ teaspoon fine salt
8 cups no-salt-added or low-sodium chicken stock or broth
6 heads baby bok choy (1½ pounds total), halved or quartered, if large, and cut into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces wonton wrappers, defrosted if frozen, cut into roughly 1-inch-wide strips
Chili crisp, for serving

STEPS

Set a sheet pan or platter as well as a bowl of water near your workspace. In a large bowl, use your hands to gently mix the pork, three-quarters of the scallions, the egg, 2 teaspoons of the ginger, the soy sauce or tamari, sesame oil, sugar and salt until evenly combined. (The mixture will be a little loose.) Use a small cookie scoop or 1-tablespoon measuring spoon to form the mixture into 1½-tablespoon portions about 1 inch in diameter. Use damp hands to gently roll the portions into balls, and arrange on the prepared sheet pan or platter, rewetting your hands as needed. (You should have about 24 meatballs.)

Set a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, add the stock or broth and the remaining 2 teaspoons of ginger, and bring to a boil. Add the bok choy, return the liquid to a boil, then stir in the wonton wrappers, a handful at a time, separating them as you work so they don’t stick together.

Carefully add the meatballs to the pot; cover and cook until the meatballs are cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining scallions. Taste, and season with soy sauce, as desired. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve hot, with a spoonful of chili crisp and a drizzle of sesame oil.

Substitutions: Ground pork: another ground meat or plant-based alternative. Scallions: shallots or yellow onion. Allergic to sesame oil? Omit it. Granulated sugar: other types of sugar. Chicken stock or broth: vegetable stock or broth. Baby bok choy: spinach, chard or cabbage. Chili crisp: sriracha, chili-garlic sauce or other hot sauce.

by Aaron Hutcherson, Washington Post/Seattle Times |  Read more:

Images: Peggy Cormary and Carolyn Robb
[ed. I know this is all about expediency, but wrapping the fillings is not that time consuming after you've made the mix. And worth it, I think (for those little 'pillows of happiness' or whatever). Plus, throw a few in hot oil and you've got crispy wontons.]